J. Lohr Vineyards & Wines

Jerry Lohr thinks Chardonnay is the signature grape of the Arroyo Seco AVA, and he grows a lot of it: more than 800 acres. Most of it goes into this moderately priced ($14) wine, although Lohr does produce a single-vineyard bottling of Chardonnay, too. The Riverstone Chardonnay takes its name from the “river stones” or cobblestones that lie beneath the soils of much of Arroyo Seco. These stones help keep the vines’ vegetative growth under control.

The weather during harvest in 2005 never got too hot, and the grapes were picked over the course of a month, as each vineyard block was ready. The wine was 100 percent barrel fermented, then spent nine months in a combination of French and American oak of varying ages. About 60 percent of the blend underwent malolactic fermentation. It’s a very pretty Chardonnay, with some floral and jasmine nuances adding complexity to the ripe pear and citrus fruit. There’s some oak evident, but it’s well-integrated. Overall, the Riverstone Chardonnay is crisp and exceptionally well-balanced. Vice president of winemaking Jeff Meier suggests drinking it with richly textured fish or seafood, or with cream-sauced pasta.

Reviewed March 15, 2007 by Laurie Daniel.