St. Julian Wine Co.

Riesling and Michigan have become synonymous. Yet, with Riesling, whether it originates from one of the state's northern AVAs (Leelanau Peninsula or Old Mission Peninsula) or Lake Michigan Shore makes a difference. St. Julian's 2006 Braganini Reserve Riesling showcases the difference dramatically. White peach is the dominant ripe fruit rather than apple, although that fruit makes a delicate appearance in both aroma and flavor.

Refined and deserving of a reserve designation, the Braganini Riesling has an added touch of varietal minerality and the right note of citrus to match its dry style with balanced acidity. Nine months aging on the lees in neutral oak barrels gave the wine added creaminess that is enlivened in the finish with a splash of lime accents.

St. Julian Winery owner Dave Braganini has rightly put his family name on this limited production wine that also showcases two Lake Michigan Shore AVA growers, Herman Farms and Paradigm Farms, that are the fruit sources. Lovely on its own or versatile with seafood or fish with a light cream sauce, this wine can be described in one word -- delicious.

Reviewed December 18, 2007 by Eleanor & Ray Heald.