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Feature Article
Coro Mendocino’s complex blending rules are compounded by defined ranges for specific chemistry, such as alcohol and pH, and topped of with stringent minimum aging requirements.
Coro Mendocino 2003: Third Time’s A Charm
…such regionally-based blends are common in Europe: think of Chateauneuf-du-Pape or Chianti Classico. Coro, on the other hand, is the only controlled blending program in the U.S.
by
Thom Elkjer
July 5, 2006
Mendocino County vintners created “Coro Mendocino” five years ago to showcase the county’s so-called “heritage grapes” imported by immigrants from the Mediterranean basin. To qualify as a Coro bottling, the wine must be 100% Mendocino-grown, and come from Zinfandel, Syrah, Petite Sirah and other grapes that have been grown in the county for generations.
But in a unique twist, Coro wines must also be a blend of a number of these varieties. This is another tip of the hat to Mendocino’s early history, which included many field-blended wines as well as rustic blends created in the cellar to make the best of available resources. Of course such regionally-based blends are common in Europe: think of Chateauneuf-du-Pape or Chianti Classico. Coro, on the other hand, is the only controlled blending program in the U.S.
Coro’s blending rules begin with the requirements that the wine must contain at least 40% Zinfandel and that no other variety can eclipse the percentage of Zin. The complex blending rules are compounded by defined ranges for specific chemistry, such as alcohol and pH, and also by rules for aging (100% new oak for at least 12 months, and another year in bottle on top of that).
All these factors make it relatively expensive to produce a Coro bottling, which must also use a special label and top-of-the-line cork. Thus, while anyone is eligible to produce a Coro, only eight wineries came through in the first year and nine in the second. The bottom line for consumers is simple: at $35 the bottle, Coro is likely to be the most expensive Mendocino-grown wine you’ve ever tasted that’s not made from Pinot Noir.
The good news is, it will be worth every penny. Eleven wineries made a Coro from the 2003 vintage – the program’s third – and every one is worth your consideration. In fact the styles and personalities of the wines are finally beginning to shine a little more brightly and show more individuality. This follows the first two years in which the Coro vintners peer-reviewed each other into a “family resemblance” straitjacket. Now that they know the Coro program works, they’re giving each other more room to run – and that’s all to the good.
I’ve included a great deal of additional detail in the tasting notes for the wines (see my Wine Recommendations section), so let’s stick to a few broad themes here.
First, Zin and Syrah continue to dominate the blends. In fact in 2003 they accounted for the biggest combined percentage yet with an average of 89% of the blend compared to 72% in 2002 and 70% in 2001. The notable exceptions were, as always, Sally Ottoson (Pacific Star) and Greg Graziano (Graziano Family Wines); these adventurous, skilled blenders ranged much more widely in their choices of grapes compared to most other Coro producers.
Alcohol continues to inch upward, from an average of 14.65% in 2001 to an average of 14.74% in 2002. This could be an artifact of the vintage, which was warm in the North Coast of California, but it could just as easily be a sign of the times, particularly where Zin and Syrah are concerned. There’s even a possibility that these levels are moderate compared to other places. I could argue, for example, that big-time wines from these grapes would top 15% alcohol in parts of Santa Barbara.
Seven of the original Coro producers are still with the program. They were joined by two second-year players (Dunnewood and McDowell) and two newcomers (McNab Ridge and Oracle Oaks). All the Coro players, however, have long, strong ties to Mendocino County. For example, the “new” Coro wineries are actually headed by members of long-established Mendocino winemaking families: Rich Parducci and Greg Lolonis. The other labels are also well-known, including Brutocao, Fetzer and Eaglepoint. Total production rose only modestly, to 1933 cases overall from 1825 in 2002. In contrast, there was a big jump after the first year, when only 1300 cases were made.
Coro wines are not sold in stores, and nobody made that much (case counts range from 92 to 318) so don’t think it over too long.
Next spring, I’ll do a retrospective tasting with the first four years of the program so we can see how well the earlier vintages are aging. That’s the only major unanswered question about Coro so far, and I for one will be eager to answer it unequivocally.
~ Thom Elkjer, Mendocino Regional Correspondent
To comment on Thom Elkjer’s writings and thoughts, contact him at t.elkjer@appellationamerica.com
But in a unique twist, Coro wines must also be a blend of a number of these varieties. This is another tip of the hat to Mendocino’s early history, which included many field-blended wines as well as rustic blends created in the cellar to make the best of available resources. Of course such regionally-based blends are common in Europe: think of Chateauneuf-du-Pape or Chianti Classico. Coro, on the other hand, is the only controlled blending program in the U.S.
Coro’s blending rules begin with the requirements that the wine must contain at least 40% Zinfandel and that no other variety can eclipse the percentage of Zin. The complex blending rules are compounded by defined ranges for specific chemistry, such as alcohol and pH, and also by rules for aging (100% new oak for at least 12 months, and another year in bottle on top of that).
All these factors make it relatively expensive to produce a Coro bottling, which must also use a special label and top-of-the-line cork. Thus, while anyone is eligible to produce a Coro, only eight wineries came through in the first year and nine in the second. The bottom line for consumers is simple: at $35 the bottle, Coro is likely to be the most expensive Mendocino-grown wine you’ve ever tasted that’s not made from Pinot Noir.
The good news is, it will be worth every penny. Eleven wineries made a Coro from the 2003 vintage – the program’s third – and every one is worth your consideration. In fact the styles and personalities of the wines are finally beginning to shine a little more brightly and show more individuality. This follows the first two years in which the Coro vintners peer-reviewed each other into a “family resemblance” straitjacket. Now that they know the Coro program works, they’re giving each other more room to run – and that’s all to the good.
I’ve included a great deal of additional detail in the tasting notes for the wines (see my Wine Recommendations section), so let’s stick to a few broad themes here.
First, Zin and Syrah continue to dominate the blends. In fact in 2003 they accounted for the biggest combined percentage yet with an average of 89% of the blend compared to 72% in 2002 and 70% in 2001. The notable exceptions were, as always, Sally Ottoson (Pacific Star) and Greg Graziano (Graziano Family Wines); these adventurous, skilled blenders ranged much more widely in their choices of grapes compared to most other Coro producers.
Alcohol continues to inch upward, from an average of 14.65% in 2001 to an average of 14.74% in 2002. This could be an artifact of the vintage, which was warm in the North Coast of California, but it could just as easily be a sign of the times, particularly where Zin and Syrah are concerned. There’s even a possibility that these levels are moderate compared to other places. I could argue, for example, that big-time wines from these grapes would top 15% alcohol in parts of Santa Barbara.
Seven of the original Coro producers are still with the program. They were joined by two second-year players (Dunnewood and McDowell) and two newcomers (McNab Ridge and Oracle Oaks). All the Coro players, however, have long, strong ties to Mendocino County. For example, the “new” Coro wineries are actually headed by members of long-established Mendocino winemaking families: Rich Parducci and Greg Lolonis. The other labels are also well-known, including Brutocao, Fetzer and Eaglepoint. Total production rose only modestly, to 1933 cases overall from 1825 in 2002. In contrast, there was a big jump after the first year, when only 1300 cases were made.
Coro wines are not sold in stores, and nobody made that much (case counts range from 92 to 318) so don’t think it over too long.
Next spring, I’ll do a retrospective tasting with the first four years of the program so we can see how well the earlier vintages are aging. That’s the only major unanswered question about Coro so far, and I for one will be eager to answer it unequivocally.
~ Thom Elkjer, Mendocino Regional Correspondent
To comment on Thom Elkjer’s writings and thoughts, contact him at t.elkjer@appellationamerica.com
