Feature Article
Llano Estacado's Greg Bruni and Mark Hyman, braving the elements in the Extreme Climate of the THP
'...the future for Texas High Plains appellation-based wines has become a reality not only for wineries on the Plains, but also for wineries in other districts that recognize our quality and are producing THP appellation products.'
by
Adam Dial
April 13, 2004
AA:
The vastness of Texas, a state that exceeds the size of France, takes in a wide range of terrain and climate. The state’s two largest regions, Texas High Plains and Texas Hill Country, are separated by more than 200 miles. Yet most wine drinkers would still pigeonhole all Texas wine as merely that, ‘Texas wine’. The assumption that all Texas wines are alike might be as unreasonable as the suggestion that Bordeaux, Burgundy, Alsace and Champagne are all alike because they all come from France. Why do you think consumers for the most part have not become familiar with the diversity that exists in Texas winegrowing?
MH: Lack of maturity of the Texas wine industry. Remember, our renaissance is less than three decades old, while France’s wine industry goes back centuries. The Texas wine industry is still avidly experimenting and learning what grows best…and where.
GB: The development of the Texas wine industry has occurred to a great extent without the leadership of trained viticulturists and/or enologists. As a result it has only been recently that the true development of our Texas AVA’s is becoming significant. In other words, if we are struggling just to grow the grapes and make the wine in a commercially correct manner, the appellation is irrelevant. The more trained professionals we acquire in the industry the more significant the AVA’s will become, because only then will we be able to truly evaluate the terroir.
AA: Llano Estacado was in the first wave of post-prohibition wineries in the state of Texas, first opening its doors in 1976. Llano was already well established when you both arrived in 1993 -- shortly after THP had achieved AVA status. Has it been part of your personal mandate to develop the identity and promote not just the image of the Llano Estacado winery, but also the Texas High Plains region itself?
MH: The AVA’s are important, but once again, we’re still trying to see just which varieties grow best…and where; we currently work with grapes from several AVA’s.
GB: In the mid 1970’s the major State Universities of Texas set upon a collaborative effort to study the potential for grape growing and wine making in Texas. At that time university researchers developed a large body of experimental work. This excellent body of scientific work established many of the basic parameters of growing grapes across Texas, in our (diverse) continental climate. For whatever reason, the good science developed by the university system was inconsistently applied to the commercial vineyards that were being developed both on the THP and in other locations across the state. When I came to Texas ten years ago, many of these original vineyards on the THP (but not all) were being pulled up because they were not economically viable. For this reason I was not initially sold on the idea of the THP appellation. In recent times, as science has been applied to new vineyard development, we are beginning to catch a glimpse of the quality potential and economic viability of THP. Llano is now sourcing about 25% of its grapes from the THP appellation and the future for THP appellation-based wines has become a reality not only for wineries on the Plains, but also for wineries in other districts that recognize our quality and are producing THP appellation products.
AA: How would you distinguish the Texas High Plains from other regions of the state in terms of its unique growing conditions and terroir?
GB: As you know the Southwest is an area of great contrasts. On the THP you are exposed to the most extreme of all contrasts:
Climate:
Our mean temperature is 59 F, and degree-days from bud break to harvest ranges between 2,400 and 2,700. In July, temperatures often exceed 100 F, however the high elevation (entire region between 2,900-3,500 feet) and the presence of wind reduces grape temperatures by 20 F, making this region cooler than most areas along a similar line of latitude. Another very important feature is the frost-free period in Lubbock County of 211-days. The mean dates for last (spring) and first (fall) frosts are April 7th and November 4th, respectively. The mean annual precipitation for Lubbock County is 18.3-inches. Most of the rainfall occurs during the warm season (April–October) in the form of thunderstorms, helping meet irrigation needs during “grand growth” and reducing irrigation during maturation.
Other important features include: the relative abundance of water from the Ogallala Aquifer (underground water supply) for irrigation, which may not be ample water for cotton, but is sufficient for grapes; the low relative humidity (at noon the mean average relative humidity during July-September is less than 40%, meaning an absence of mold, fungi, and mildew); plus a general absence of Pierce’s Disease, insect pressure, and soil-borne diseases (except occasional nematodes) in the THP.
Terrain and Soils:
The THP is nearly level (0-3%) with soils that are well drained and calcareous (magnesium carbonate) in nature. Soil depth ranges from very shallow to deep (typically 10-80 inches), and in most areas there exists a complex of very fragile soils. A small difference in our soil composition has a significant impact on the vine and resulting wine. For example one of our growers will plant Mourvedre on “Amarillo Loam Fine Sand” but not on “Amarillo Fine Sandy Loam”.
In general our soils are friable (brittle and crumbly) at the surface and even to depths of 46-inches in some locations. Also, shifting of soil occurs by wind. The soils are moderately alkaline throughout the root zone, with variable reddish, pink or brown sandy clay-loam, and contain about 20% calcium carbonate by volume. Surface runoff is medium, permeability is moderate and available water capacity is high. In most areas the root zone is from 47-80 inches and easily penetrated.
The bottom line is that site selection is critical here, and many vineyards have gotten off to a very bad start by not paying attention to this fact.
AA: Is there a distinctive THP wine style that results from the conditions described above?
GB: Yes, and as we further refine and standardize our approach to grape growing and winemaking these differences will become more clearly defined. White wines, if picked at the correct time, have a tendency to be perfumed and fragrant. Depending on elevation and soils, the reds display a moderately tannic structure. They can be soft and round in lower areas, while in the higher-cooler elevations more fully developed and astringent reds may be produced. As in all wine growing areas, balancing vine growth and crop is the key to a flavorful wine.
AA: Llano Estacado works with contract growers in other parts of Texas. Do these areas differ significantly from the THP in terms of their particular aspects of terroir and resulting wines?
GB: Yes, we are working with growers in areas other than the THP. However, to me the concept of terroir is only relevant to grape districts in the world where the location has a highly evolved history of grape and wine production. To use Europe as a model, they “do not ask of one site that it replicate the qualities of another site”, they prize distinction verses the New World approach that “all soils produce all types”. While it is possible to compare and contrast specific differences in say Cabernet Sauvignon produced from different districts of our state, it is premature to surmise that the actual wine differences are those resulting from unique terroir. There is significant manipulation by both the grape grower and winemaker.
AA: One would assume that the sandy loam soils of West Texas are desirable for viticulture because of their well draining capacity and low nutrients, as well as the additional ‘benefit’ of phylloxera-free vineyards. Is Llano Estacado or any of its growers working rootstock variations? If so, do you believe this translates into any significant differences in wine quality?
GB: To this very day most vineyards on the THP are planted to own-rooted vines. In the beginning many growers planted own-rooted vines as a strategy for recovery from winter kill (i.e. training root suckers to replace the dead tissue above ground). It has only been recently that adaptive clone selection and rootstocks have been sought. Due to our extreme conditions which often results in low vigor, vines grafted onto roots well matched for our soils appears to be the best way to establish a balanced vine capable of sustaining economically viable yields of premium grapes. Just as California and Bordeaux depend on rootstocks to combat phylloxera, it is my opinion that Texas needs the same technology (for somewhat different reasons) to be successful.
AA: The high elevation and continental location of THP makes the region very arid, and as you’ve already mentioned, you are relieved of many of the vineyard management concerns, particularly mildew diseases, faced by growers in more humid regions. With this natural benefit of climate, and the escalating consumer interest in organically produced products, are the wineries and growers of THP exploring organic farming options?
GB: Yes we are interested and are currently researching the production of organic wines from our 3-acre estate vineyard.
AA: What do you consider to be the greatest ecological challenges facing the THP as a wine region today?
GB: Most of the soils that are suitable for cultivated farm crops are currently used for that purpose. Recently the acreage of land under irrigation has steadily declined in direct proportion to the decreasing underground water supply. At the same time there has been a rapid increase in the number of acres under urban development. Good management is needed to prevent the erosion and loss of our fragile soils and to conserve water.
AA: Greg, in the past you have stated, “Our climate is not always well-suited for the French varietals which we primarily grow in Texas”. You've also argued that the Texas High Plains growing season is long, hot and dry – conditions more comparable to the Rhone Valley than Bordeaux. With that, in recent years Llano has broadened its varietal portfolio to include varieties like Carignane, Syrah, Mourvedre, Grenache and Viognier, as well as Italian varietals like Sangiovese, Dolcetto, and Nebbiolo. Where do you see the future in terms of the vineyard make-up of THP?
GB: In my opinion the potential of the THP (and Texas, generally) is just now being discovered. To your question, further development of Mediterranean varieties is definitely indicated for the THP. We are now able to develop our potential in a more sensible way, applying good science based strategies to test a project before it is developed. This helps to produce quality while sustaining economic viability. If projects like this continue to meet with predictable success, our expectation is that vineyards will compete with cotton for the best land in the area to provide continued success. In addition to the varieties you listed we have also planted Pinot Grigio. Others are coming, such as Port varieties, Sicilian reds and a local nursery has even acquired Montepulciano bud wood!
Much of what I initially attributed solely to climatological intervention was more the result of the cumulative consequences of poor vineyard management practice in an unforgiving climate. There are a handful of growers who have proven to me through the wines Llano has made that my original statements related to our region were a rush to judgement. For the first time in ten years I must recant my statement, this in recognition of the good people who proved me wrong by making it happen.
AA: Mark, being the largest “premium” winery in Texas, Llano Estacado has the greatest ambitions for wider national distribution. Any recognition of Texas as a wine producer beyond the state’s own borders is largely due to Llano’s efforts. If Texas has gained some national recognition as a serious wine state, do you think American wine consumers are ready to learn about the distinct sub-appellations within the state?
MH: I think it will take decades before American wine consumers distinguish distinct sub-appellations within our state, just as it has in California. Twenty years ago, how many people along the entire eastern seaboard of the U.S. knew of any California appellations other than perhaps Napa and Sonoma.
AA: To fulfill your production requirements, Llano Estacado sources and blends fruit from other regions within Texas. For instance, with your first vintage of Shiraz (2001) you sourced the grapes from two distant locations -- your own vineyards in Texas High Plains, plus fruit from the Texas Hill Country appellation, and labelled the wine under the broader ‘Texas’ appellation. In the future, do you see any advantage in producing single appellation wines (i.e. a THP Shiraz and a THC Syrah), to promote Texas as a place of diverse regions and styles?
MH: Our broad market, mass distribution wines will probably have to continue to be blended cuvees of two or more AVA’s in order to produce consistent quality wine at a market-wide competitive price point. However, our upper tier, small batch and reserve wines will be typically single appellation, and hopefully single vineyard designated wines.
AA: The late Leon Adams is arguably America’s greatest wine historian and writer. Leon’s literary works were a celebration of North America’s diverse and rich wine heritage, praising all the wines of the continent from East to West, North and South. At the time of the final (third) edition of his book, 'The Wines of America' (1985), it was just the dawn of the appellation movement. Were Leon still with us today, he would most certainly be writing about the wines of America in the context of their distinct appellations. Thirty years ago the vineyards of THP were just being planted and the region was essentially a wine oddity waiting to be discovered by the wine drinkers of America. At that time, Leon described your region as a “viticultural miracle”. Now that the THP is an established viticultural area and its wines highly awarded, how would you like the region to be regarded, as “miracle”, or something less surprising.
GB: Leon was right again! It is a “Viticultural Miracle”! From my California perspective the fact that life exists out here at all is miracle! To sum it up, adaptability of nature explains how grapes are grown and how quality wine is made on the Texas High Plains. Oh, let’s not forget the small group of fine people that make it all happen!
MH: Lack of maturity of the Texas wine industry. Remember, our renaissance is less than three decades old, while France’s wine industry goes back centuries. The Texas wine industry is still avidly experimenting and learning what grows best…and where.
GB: The development of the Texas wine industry has occurred to a great extent without the leadership of trained viticulturists and/or enologists. As a result it has only been recently that the true development of our Texas AVA’s is becoming significant. In other words, if we are struggling just to grow the grapes and make the wine in a commercially correct manner, the appellation is irrelevant. The more trained professionals we acquire in the industry the more significant the AVA’s will become, because only then will we be able to truly evaluate the terroir.
AA: Llano Estacado was in the first wave of post-prohibition wineries in the state of Texas, first opening its doors in 1976. Llano was already well established when you both arrived in 1993 -- shortly after THP had achieved AVA status. Has it been part of your personal mandate to develop the identity and promote not just the image of the Llano Estacado winery, but also the Texas High Plains region itself?
MH: The AVA’s are important, but once again, we’re still trying to see just which varieties grow best…and where; we currently work with grapes from several AVA’s.
GB: In the mid 1970’s the major State Universities of Texas set upon a collaborative effort to study the potential for grape growing and wine making in Texas. At that time university researchers developed a large body of experimental work. This excellent body of scientific work established many of the basic parameters of growing grapes across Texas, in our (diverse) continental climate. For whatever reason, the good science developed by the university system was inconsistently applied to the commercial vineyards that were being developed both on the THP and in other locations across the state. When I came to Texas ten years ago, many of these original vineyards on the THP (but not all) were being pulled up because they were not economically viable. For this reason I was not initially sold on the idea of the THP appellation. In recent times, as science has been applied to new vineyard development, we are beginning to catch a glimpse of the quality potential and economic viability of THP. Llano is now sourcing about 25% of its grapes from the THP appellation and the future for THP appellation-based wines has become a reality not only for wineries on the Plains, but also for wineries in other districts that recognize our quality and are producing THP appellation products.
AA: How would you distinguish the Texas High Plains from other regions of the state in terms of its unique growing conditions and terroir?
GB: As you know the Southwest is an area of great contrasts. On the THP you are exposed to the most extreme of all contrasts:
- Extreme cold during winter -- in the form of dry polar Canadian air masses leading to sharp drops in temperatures. It is not uncommon to see winter temperatures drop to the low teens (lowest on record is –17 degrees F, in Lubbock County).
- Extreme heat during the summer (dry steppe climate). I have seen 17 days in a row of +100 degree F afternoon temperatures during bloom.
- Extreme wind -- prevailing wind is from the southwest Nov–April; and southerly May-Oct. At noon wind speeds average 13-mph. What I used to call wind in the Central Coast of California is considered a breeze on the plains -- every day prevailing 10-20mph with higher gusts (45-60mph). On an extreme day we have such drastic windstorms that the static electricity developed by blowing sand causes flower clusters to burn!
- Tornado activity brings violent rain and unbelievable hail.
- Spring frost can come after weeks of warm weather to totally decimate a crop (or sometimes the vineyard).
Climate:
Our mean temperature is 59 F, and degree-days from bud break to harvest ranges between 2,400 and 2,700. In July, temperatures often exceed 100 F, however the high elevation (entire region between 2,900-3,500 feet) and the presence of wind reduces grape temperatures by 20 F, making this region cooler than most areas along a similar line of latitude. Another very important feature is the frost-free period in Lubbock County of 211-days. The mean dates for last (spring) and first (fall) frosts are April 7th and November 4th, respectively. The mean annual precipitation for Lubbock County is 18.3-inches. Most of the rainfall occurs during the warm season (April–October) in the form of thunderstorms, helping meet irrigation needs during “grand growth” and reducing irrigation during maturation.
Other important features include: the relative abundance of water from the Ogallala Aquifer (underground water supply) for irrigation, which may not be ample water for cotton, but is sufficient for grapes; the low relative humidity (at noon the mean average relative humidity during July-September is less than 40%, meaning an absence of mold, fungi, and mildew); plus a general absence of Pierce’s Disease, insect pressure, and soil-borne diseases (except occasional nematodes) in the THP.
Terrain and Soils:
The THP is nearly level (0-3%) with soils that are well drained and calcareous (magnesium carbonate) in nature. Soil depth ranges from very shallow to deep (typically 10-80 inches), and in most areas there exists a complex of very fragile soils. A small difference in our soil composition has a significant impact on the vine and resulting wine. For example one of our growers will plant Mourvedre on “Amarillo Loam Fine Sand” but not on “Amarillo Fine Sandy Loam”.
In general our soils are friable (brittle and crumbly) at the surface and even to depths of 46-inches in some locations. Also, shifting of soil occurs by wind. The soils are moderately alkaline throughout the root zone, with variable reddish, pink or brown sandy clay-loam, and contain about 20% calcium carbonate by volume. Surface runoff is medium, permeability is moderate and available water capacity is high. In most areas the root zone is from 47-80 inches and easily penetrated.
The bottom line is that site selection is critical here, and many vineyards have gotten off to a very bad start by not paying attention to this fact.
AA: Is there a distinctive THP wine style that results from the conditions described above?
GB: Yes, and as we further refine and standardize our approach to grape growing and winemaking these differences will become more clearly defined. White wines, if picked at the correct time, have a tendency to be perfumed and fragrant. Depending on elevation and soils, the reds display a moderately tannic structure. They can be soft and round in lower areas, while in the higher-cooler elevations more fully developed and astringent reds may be produced. As in all wine growing areas, balancing vine growth and crop is the key to a flavorful wine.
AA: Llano Estacado works with contract growers in other parts of Texas. Do these areas differ significantly from the THP in terms of their particular aspects of terroir and resulting wines?
GB: Yes, we are working with growers in areas other than the THP. However, to me the concept of terroir is only relevant to grape districts in the world where the location has a highly evolved history of grape and wine production. To use Europe as a model, they “do not ask of one site that it replicate the qualities of another site”, they prize distinction verses the New World approach that “all soils produce all types”. While it is possible to compare and contrast specific differences in say Cabernet Sauvignon produced from different districts of our state, it is premature to surmise that the actual wine differences are those resulting from unique terroir. There is significant manipulation by both the grape grower and winemaker.
AA: One would assume that the sandy loam soils of West Texas are desirable for viticulture because of their well draining capacity and low nutrients, as well as the additional ‘benefit’ of phylloxera-free vineyards. Is Llano Estacado or any of its growers working rootstock variations? If so, do you believe this translates into any significant differences in wine quality?
GB: To this very day most vineyards on the THP are planted to own-rooted vines. In the beginning many growers planted own-rooted vines as a strategy for recovery from winter kill (i.e. training root suckers to replace the dead tissue above ground). It has only been recently that adaptive clone selection and rootstocks have been sought. Due to our extreme conditions which often results in low vigor, vines grafted onto roots well matched for our soils appears to be the best way to establish a balanced vine capable of sustaining economically viable yields of premium grapes. Just as California and Bordeaux depend on rootstocks to combat phylloxera, it is my opinion that Texas needs the same technology (for somewhat different reasons) to be successful.
AA: The high elevation and continental location of THP makes the region very arid, and as you’ve already mentioned, you are relieved of many of the vineyard management concerns, particularly mildew diseases, faced by growers in more humid regions. With this natural benefit of climate, and the escalating consumer interest in organically produced products, are the wineries and growers of THP exploring organic farming options?
GB: Yes we are interested and are currently researching the production of organic wines from our 3-acre estate vineyard.
AA: What do you consider to be the greatest ecological challenges facing the THP as a wine region today?
GB: Most of the soils that are suitable for cultivated farm crops are currently used for that purpose. Recently the acreage of land under irrigation has steadily declined in direct proportion to the decreasing underground water supply. At the same time there has been a rapid increase in the number of acres under urban development. Good management is needed to prevent the erosion and loss of our fragile soils and to conserve water.
AA: Greg, in the past you have stated, “Our climate is not always well-suited for the French varietals which we primarily grow in Texas”. You've also argued that the Texas High Plains growing season is long, hot and dry – conditions more comparable to the Rhone Valley than Bordeaux. With that, in recent years Llano has broadened its varietal portfolio to include varieties like Carignane, Syrah, Mourvedre, Grenache and Viognier, as well as Italian varietals like Sangiovese, Dolcetto, and Nebbiolo. Where do you see the future in terms of the vineyard make-up of THP?
GB: In my opinion the potential of the THP (and Texas, generally) is just now being discovered. To your question, further development of Mediterranean varieties is definitely indicated for the THP. We are now able to develop our potential in a more sensible way, applying good science based strategies to test a project before it is developed. This helps to produce quality while sustaining economic viability. If projects like this continue to meet with predictable success, our expectation is that vineyards will compete with cotton for the best land in the area to provide continued success. In addition to the varieties you listed we have also planted Pinot Grigio. Others are coming, such as Port varieties, Sicilian reds and a local nursery has even acquired Montepulciano bud wood!
Much of what I initially attributed solely to climatological intervention was more the result of the cumulative consequences of poor vineyard management practice in an unforgiving climate. There are a handful of growers who have proven to me through the wines Llano has made that my original statements related to our region were a rush to judgement. For the first time in ten years I must recant my statement, this in recognition of the good people who proved me wrong by making it happen.
AA: Mark, being the largest “premium” winery in Texas, Llano Estacado has the greatest ambitions for wider national distribution. Any recognition of Texas as a wine producer beyond the state’s own borders is largely due to Llano’s efforts. If Texas has gained some national recognition as a serious wine state, do you think American wine consumers are ready to learn about the distinct sub-appellations within the state?
MH: I think it will take decades before American wine consumers distinguish distinct sub-appellations within our state, just as it has in California. Twenty years ago, how many people along the entire eastern seaboard of the U.S. knew of any California appellations other than perhaps Napa and Sonoma.
AA: To fulfill your production requirements, Llano Estacado sources and blends fruit from other regions within Texas. For instance, with your first vintage of Shiraz (2001) you sourced the grapes from two distant locations -- your own vineyards in Texas High Plains, plus fruit from the Texas Hill Country appellation, and labelled the wine under the broader ‘Texas’ appellation. In the future, do you see any advantage in producing single appellation wines (i.e. a THP Shiraz and a THC Syrah), to promote Texas as a place of diverse regions and styles?
MH: Our broad market, mass distribution wines will probably have to continue to be blended cuvees of two or more AVA’s in order to produce consistent quality wine at a market-wide competitive price point. However, our upper tier, small batch and reserve wines will be typically single appellation, and hopefully single vineyard designated wines.
AA: The late Leon Adams is arguably America’s greatest wine historian and writer. Leon’s literary works were a celebration of North America’s diverse and rich wine heritage, praising all the wines of the continent from East to West, North and South. At the time of the final (third) edition of his book, 'The Wines of America' (1985), it was just the dawn of the appellation movement. Were Leon still with us today, he would most certainly be writing about the wines of America in the context of their distinct appellations. Thirty years ago the vineyards of THP were just being planted and the region was essentially a wine oddity waiting to be discovered by the wine drinkers of America. At that time, Leon described your region as a “viticultural miracle”. Now that the THP is an established viticultural area and its wines highly awarded, how would you like the region to be regarded, as “miracle”, or something less surprising.
GB: Leon was right again! It is a “Viticultural Miracle”! From my California perspective the fact that life exists out here at all is miracle! To sum it up, adaptability of nature explains how grapes are grown and how quality wine is made on the Texas High Plains. Oh, let’s not forget the small group of fine people that make it all happen!
