Raye's Hill Vineyards and Winery

Cerise Vineyard is one of the few true hillside vineyards in Anderson Valley that you can actually see from the valley floor, and it’s well up on the slope near the top of the ridge. Looking at those west-facing vines on a summer afternoon, you can well imagine how the French came up with the phrase “cote rotie” (“roasted slope”). Not easy to farm, but in good years the fruit sings its own song. Ted Lemon (Littorai) sources here, as do others of his ilk.

This wine is deeply scented of creamy strawberry and rhubarb, particularly with some air. Pinot-philes have been describing the grape as feminine forever, and this is a particularly good example of what they mean: fair but not fragile, slender but not slight. In your mouth the wine is sweet of cherry and berry, takes a gentle but firm grip on your palate, and expands gracefully in the aftertaste. Overall, this is a Pinot style we need more of: definitely tied to a place with distinction, yet not forced to shout about it. Also beautifully matched with lighter meats (pork, foul, rabbit). Dan Sokolow keeps saying he wants to retire from Raye’s Hill, and Lindsay Jones keeps saying he wants to sell Cerise vineyard. Guys, just give us a few more wines like this one and then you can go.

Reviewed February 1, 2007 by Thom Elkjer.