Bucklin Old Hill Ranch Winery

At the recent ZAP (Zinfandel Advocates and Producers) event in San Francisco, it seemed like everybody and their brother were pouring an “old vine” Zinfandel.

Will Bucklin, owner of Old Hill Ranch, didn’t have to cross his fingers behind his back while describing his “old vines.” Quite simply, they are the oldest vines in the Sonoma Valley, and year after year, they produce some of the most expressive and tasty Zinfandels on the planet.

Old Hill Ranch was planted by William McPherson Hill in 1851, and it is a field blend in the true sense of the word. This historic vineyard survived some very trying times, including a period in the late 1960s, when it served as a hippie commune (evidentially, other crops were being farmed there back then, too). Bucklin’s family purchased the property in 1981, and it was Joel Peterson of Ravenswood fame that convinced Bucklin to restore the property, and respect the “back in the day” field blend method in which the property was planted.

Ravenswood has been making vineyard designate wines from Bucklin’s property ever since the early 1980s (see my review of the 2004 Ravenswood Old Hill Zin). Will Bucklin entered the fray in 2000, with his first release of Zinfandel from his family’s property, and since, has done a spectacular job of mapping all of the varietals in his vineyard.

The wine shows an impressive array of layers, starting with big, bold fruit flavors of blackberry, plum and red cherry. These flavors are framed with pepper and spice, with some boysenberry and a touch of mint on the finish. It just keeps unfolding. The next day, it was even more remarkable! This wine shows more powerful fruit elements than many field blends, and it’s a lovely example of an intense yet elegant old vine Zinfandel.

Reviewed February 12, 2007 by Bradley Gray.