Wilson Winery

This is a good example of what I think of as “afternoon Zin” from Dry Creek Valley. Because the valley runs to the northwest from the plain where it meets Alexander Valley and Russian River Valley, the vineyards on the benches and slopes on either side of the valley get an extra load of either morning sun or afternoon sun. Carl’s Vineyard faces southwest, so it gets a few more hours in the shade in the morning to set its overnight acids and then long hours of afternoon sun to ripen the sugars. The 2004 vintage in Dry Creek was definitely on the ripe side, with many “afternoon Zins” rising well past 15% alcohol. This one got past 16.5%, which is usually a danger sign to me, but the vines are mature and the winemaking was, too.

The aromas are rich, brambly black cherry with blackberry and plums too -- a classic Dry Creek profile for Zin. In your mouth, the wine is big, soft, ripe and rich: the 2004 vintage in a sip. There’s also some weight on the palate that’s welcome with a wine this alcoholic. (Chill it a few degrees to increase the effect.) You’ll also notice the toasted oak late in the finish, but by then the late-blossoming aromatics have filled your head as well. This is a good example of what the vintage gave Dry Creek Zin: ripeness, softness and sweetness that are all on the full side, yet with a clear lens to focus good terroir. Plus it’s 100% Zin for you purists out there.

Reviewed March 21, 2007 by Thom Elkjer.