Tantalus Winery

Tantalus is a 2,500 case-per-year winery that specializes in Cabernet Sauvignon, with limited bottlings of Pinot Noir and Syrah. They are located just west of the town of Sonoma.

The 2004 Tantalus Syrah, Carneros “Las Madres Vineyard” is sourced from a small vineyard owned by John and Jean Painter. Several wineries source Syrah from Painter, who has a reputation for vineyard perfection. “John Painter and I are both commercial pilots,” comments Tantalus winemaker John Harwood. “He’s meticulous about his vineyard, almost to the berry. He uses a ‘checklist’ similar to what a pilot would use before takeoff, and the fruit is just fantastic.”

“The vineyard is planted with both 174 and 300 Entav clones, in east to west rows so that they don’t combat the afternoon winds,” explains John Painter. “The upper hillside section is planted to 174, and the lower hillside to 300.” At harvest time, Painter organizes the gondolas so that every winery that sources Las Madres gets a perfect cross section of the whole vineyard. “No one gets to cherry pick, but all of the fruit is really excellent, anyways,” says Painter.

This cool-climate Syrah showcases plenty of black pepper and other spicy characteristics, tied together by blackberry and cola flavors. The balance and vibrancy are impeccable, and this Syrah screams “great wine” from the first sip. The long finish hints at black licorice, with more blackberry. I was impressed by the racy acid profile, complimented by chewy tannins.

Reviewed June 11, 2007 by Bradley Gray.