Dry Creek Vineyard

This is one of the wines that must have presented a particular challenge to Bill Knuttel when he was brought in to overhaul winemaking at Dry Creek Vineyard. The fruit is from a completely different appellation and doesn’t fit Knuttel’s focus on Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Zinfandel. Not only that, the owners of the winery wanted to keep producing all their whites in a decidedly French style – and the retail price target on this bottling was less than $12.

Somehow Knuttel found a way to make a New World Chenin Blanc that combines the best of the Loire and the San Joaquin Valley – and still fits comfortably into his portfolio of Dry Creek Valley bottlings. (He claims that Clarksburg and Dry Creek Valley are a lot alike climatically, but I’m betting on the winemaking.) The aromas are subtle when the wine’s cold, but once you get it in your mouth there’s surprisingly big body, viscosity and assertive acidity. This 100% Chenin Blanc brings pineapple along with the crisp green apples, and as you might guess that combination makes for a clean, fresh finish. Highly recommended.

Reviewed July 25, 2007 by Thom Elkjer.