Brutocao Cellars

Coro Mendocino is a wine that any winery bonded in Mendocino County is eligible to make. They just have to follow the rules. First, Zinfandel must comprise between 40% and 70% of the blend, and no other grape can account for a great share than Zin. Second, most of the rest of the wine must come from a list of so-called “heritage” grapes with a long history in Mendocino (Syrah, Petite Sirah, Carignane, Sangiovese, Grenache, Dolcetto, Charbono, Barbera, Primitivo); there’s also a “free play” allotment of up to 10% that can come from any grape currently grown in the county (such as Pinot Noir and Pinotage). Finally, the wine must be aged in barrel at least a year, aged in bottle at least a year, and be in balance as defined by alcohol, pH, and total acidity.

Less than half Zinfandel, this blend includes Barbera in a co-starring role (30%) supported by Syrah, Dolcetto and Sangiovese. So it doesn’t give off a big hit of heady Zin essence in the aromas, perhaps because it’s so well balanced by the softness of the Barbera and Dolcetto. The tannins are polished, and though the wine’s a bit hot past the mid-palate shortly after the corked is pulled, that goes away with air or decanting. The mouthfeel is sumptuous, and the cherries and plums are gushing with sweetness and flavor. A date-night Coro.

Reviewed August 7, 2007 by Thom Elkjer.