Graziano

Coro Mendocino is a wine that any winery bonded in Mendocino County is eligible to make. They just have to follow the rules. First, Zinfandel must comprise between 40% and 70% of the blend, and no other grape can account for a great share than Zin. Second, most of the rest of the wine must come from a list of so-called “heritage” grapes with a long history in Mendocino (Syrah, Petite Sirah, Carignane, Sangiovese, Grenache, Dolcetto, Charbono, Barbera, Primitivo); there’s also a “free play” allotment of up to 10% that can come from any grape currently grown in the county (such as Pinot Noir and Pinotage). Finally, the wine must be aged in barrel at least a year, aged in bottle at least a year, and be in balance as defined by alcohol, pH, and total acidity. Now, on to the wine recommendation.

Greg Graziano has two labels devoted to Italian grape varieties, and he loads up his 2004 Coro with Barbera, Carignano, Dolcetto and Sangiovese (totaling 40% of the blend). On the other hand, he let Zinfandel dominate at 57 percent , so there’s plenty of Zin’s big, bold personality in this wine’s aromas and flavors. The Italian grapes give the wine marvelous acidity and liveliness – the wine fairly dances across your tongue, and tell me the last time a big Zin did that for you. The fruit’s mostly red with some black cherry, everything’s juicy, and the wine finishes with a burst of Zinfandel brambliness. Coro for a classy barbecue.

Reviewed August 7, 2007 by Thom Elkjer.