Dry Creek Vineyard

First off, plaudits to the winery for being explicit about what “old vines” means in this bottle. (The term has no legal definition so most of the time we’re left to wonder.) Also high marks for making such a balanced, supple Zin even with three weeks of fermentation and 18 months of oak aging. The high pH suggests a soft, fat California Zinfandel but it’s actually a mid-weight, tastefully tannic specimen with just 13.5% alcohol.

You can smell the vanilla from the American oak in the concentrated red-fruit aromas. Once the wine is in your mouth, you’ll feel and taste more of the French oak, but most of all you’ll get the kind of rich, complex Zin experience that only old vines can produce. There are some raisiny moments past the mid-palate but those mostly complement the good palate grip from grape tannins. If you like old-vine Zin, this is one of the few worth a $25 price tag. (Read a feature on Dry Creek Vineyard.)

Reviewed August 9, 2007 by Thom Elkjer.