Bonterra Vineyards

Bonterra was developed and spun out of Fetzer back in the days when the parent winery was focused on organic viticulture. As Fetzer now recedes into the mid-priced fighting varietal herd, Bonterra forges an ever-more distinct personality. Two of its chief characteristics are certified organic and biodynamic viticulture and – rarity of rarities for an American producer – wines that have a huge following outside the U.S.

General manager and winemaker Bob Blue has been in charge all along, and as his vineyards mature into splendor and he gains both experience and confidence, the wines shine ever brighter.

The latest Cabernet from the label showcases the clarity Blue is achieving with a grape that is often muddied beyond recognition by producers using too many chemicals and too much water in the vineyard, followed by too much oak and too heavy a hand in the winery. Here you get sweet raspberry and black cherry aromas plus vanilla and cola, new leather and wet earth – a fairly dark profile for something that smells so sweet. In your mouth, the wine brings all the aromas forward across your palate with good grip and texture. The balanced tannins come mostly from grapes, not barrels, and the oak flavors are well on their way to integrating. The finish focuses back onto the fruit and earth in equal measure. This should age quite well for another 5-10 years, if not longer.

Reviewed June 1, 2006 by Thom Elkjer.