HdV Wines

It didn’t take the HdV gang long to launch a second label. For those coming late to the party, the “H” stands for Hyde, as in the Hyde family that owns Hyde Vineyard in the eastern part of Carneros, near the junction of Highways 121 and 29. The winemaking names associated with this vineyard tell you all you need to know about its quality: Paul Hobbs, Mia Klein (Selene), Patz & Hall, David Ramey, Tony Soter (Etude), and more. The “dV” stands for “de Villaine,” as in Aubert de Villaine, part owner and managing co-director of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti in Burgundy. Monsieur de Villaine married a Hyde, and a few years ago the two families launched HdV to make their own wine from Hyde Vineyard. The early releases were quietly spectacular – but like great Burgundies, red or white, they clearly were going to get so much better in the bottle that it was nuts to drink them young.

The solution, at least for the Chardonnay, is this new release. The vines are younger than in the HdV bottling (9 to 11 years vs. up to 23 years), the wine was aged eight months instead of 11, and the wine costs $30 instead of $55. The other variables don’t differ that much. All of which means the wine is extremely well grown and well made, just built for earlier drinking. Like its big brother, the De la Guerra Chard is strong, assertive, and varietally accurate in the aromas. You taste the fruit, not the wood, upon entry, particularly sweet ripe pears. Then comes the suave grip that seems to be the signature of Hyde Vineyard grape tannins. The oak is integrated beautifully and the wine finishes endlessly.

Reviewed August 6, 2006 by Thom Elkjer.