Bonterra Vineyards

I’ll never forget my first Bonterra Roussanne, tasted on a November 30th about five years ago. All the other vineyards I passed on my way to Bonterra’s McNab Ranch were already leafless, brown and dead-looking, but the organically-farmed ranch where the Roussanne is grown was still full of flowering herbs, singing birds and buzzing bees. Even the vines were still in full leaf, passing from glorious golds and yellows to resonant oranges and reds.

Most of us rarely drink varietal Roussanne (it’s usually blended into varietal Viognier or a non-varietal blend of Rhone whites), and on that first encounter I had no frame of reference. This wine has remained a benchmark.

The 2004 is a bit closed aromatically if the wine is fully chilled, but you’ll sense its clean, elegant flavor profile anyway. Once the wine warms up, either in the glass or in your mouth, you’ll find all the lovely, luscious layers of almond, hazelnut and honey the grape can deliver. This vintage is not a big wine, but its clarity and length more than make up for that. I’d drink it on its own as an aperitif, or pair it with light, savory dishes such as ceviche.

Reviewed October 25, 2006 by Thom Elkjer.