Pietra-Santa Vineyards and Winery

Vache is a brand from Pietra Santa Winery that pays tribute to Theophile Vache, a Frenchman who first established the Cienega Valley estate in the 1850s. Over the years, Vache’s vineyard changed hands several times and eventually fell into disrepair. It was revived and replanted in the late 1980s, and the vineyard and Mission-style winery recently were purchased by the Blackburn family.

Cienega Valley, near the town of Hollister, is bisected by the San Andreas Fault, and geological movement over the years has left behind limestone and granite deposits. The rocky soils stress the vines and create low yields. Although the Cienega Valley AVA isn’t as cool as the neighboring Mount Harlan AVA (home to Calera Winery), it’s still cooler than most people think, largely because of the afternoon breezes off Monterey Bay, just 25 miles away. Not a bad spot for Pinot Noir.

This $35 Pinot, which comes from a vineyard that’s a neighbor to Pietra Santa, is aromatic and concentrated, with flavors of cherry and raspberry and a very subtle hint of sage. It’s well-structured yet supple, with a long finish.

Reviewed January 9, 2007 by Laurie Daniel.