Loring Wine Company2005 Pinot Noir, Brosseau Vineyard
Brian Loring’s enthusiasm is contagious, and he directs much of that enthusiasm toward his admitted “obsession” with Pinot Noir. (“Is there really anything else worth drinking, besides Champagne?” his Web site asks.) Pinot Noir is all he makes, and he makes more than a dozen of them, nearly all of them single-vineyard bottlings from vineyards like Garys’ and Rosella’s in the Santa Lucia Highlands, Clos Pepe in the Sta. Rita Hills and Rancho Ontiveros in the Santa Maria Valley.
Loring’s style is big and bold, and the wines sometimes can be a little over the top, with lavish fruit and fairly high alcohol. This bottling from Brosseau Vineyard, which sells for $48, is certainly flavorful, but the alcohol checks in at a moderate 13.6 percent. The wine spent 10 months in French oak, half of it new, and 600 cases were made. This is a rich, concentrated Pinot that displays bright raspberry fruit, hints of rhubarb and mineral, firm but approachable tannins and a long finish. Loring’s wine can be a little hard to find – he sells much of it through a mailing list – but this one in particular is worth searching for.
Reviewed March 28, 2007 by Laurie Daniel.
Laurie Daniel, wine columnist for the San Jose Mercury News, has been reviewing wine for more than 10 years. She doesn’t use numbers, preferring to describe her recommended wines and let consumers decide for themselves. Laurie believes that bigger isn’t necessarily better; she’s partial to wines of balance, finesse and character. Her particular interests are Pinot Noir (versions that really taste like Pinot, that is) and aromatic whites like Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and Gewürztraminer.