Fortress Vineyards2005 Sauvignon Blanc
(Red Hills Lake County)
Fess Parker, the former television star and developer, established his wine empire in Santa Barbara County, and soon saw the need for other brands on which to focus. The lower-level Parker Station wines, the upscale Epiphany line, and a wine called Frontier Red soon gained a cousin.
In a joint venture with the Snider family of Lake County, a single wine was developed called Fortress (is this a passing reference to the Alamo, which figured prominently in the saga of Davy Crockett?).
The secret to the Fortress Vineyards wines is Sauvignon Blanc from the rare Musque clone. The Sniders’ 25-acre vineyard is planted entirely to Sauvignon Musque, giving this delightful wine a lime, kiwi, peach and melon/spice aroma. The wine is also rich and soft, and most appealing with Asian foods. A box on the back label notes: “Grass is for cows.”
Reviewed April 10, 2007 by Dan Berger.
Dan Berger has been reviewing wine for 30 years, always seeking character related to varietal type and regional identity. He has never used numbers to rank wine and doesn’t plan to start any time soon. He believes that weight and concentration aren’t the only worthy aspects of wine and is especially smitten by cool-climate and food-friendly wines that offer distinctiveness.