The Winery at La Grange

It seems the distinction between “New World” and “Old World” wines has always been a heated discussion. Perhaps, it is our human nature to pick one or the other and neglect that fact that most likely, the best is a bit of both. We have recently tasted a fascinating case-in-point: the wine was a 100% Cabernet Franc – a thin skinned, sponge of terroir; and the place was Virginia – midway between the two fabled worlds.

This wine is stuffed with ripe aromatics that tumble over each other excited to escape the confines of the glass. Ripe, fresh raspberry, bing cherry, vanilla spice, green bell pepper and zucchini mingle with the non-edible notes of violets and sweetpea. Immediately, the assertive nose provokes the memory of floral, fruity California versions of this varietal. The palate however, sends you 3000 miles over the Atlantic to the idyllic Loire Valley. Rustic earth, pepper and herbaceousness spice up the mid-palate and roll out a red carpet (an unfiltered, brilliant, ruby carpet!) for the lively tannins that follow. Even after this intriguing bottle was quickly finished, it was still not clear whether the style of this wine should be characterized as New World or Old, but what was clear was that it could not have come from anywhere other than Virginia.

Situated in a beautifully remodeled old Manor house from 1790, the winery at La Grange shares this seamless marriage of old and new. The winery calls Cabernet Franc “the sweetheart grape of Virginia… sure to become the classic Virginia grape.” After tasting this example, it’s easy to agree. The search is on for more of “Virginia’s grape”!

Reviewed April 11, 2007 by Tasting Panel.