Pearmund Cellars

With a long, tumultuous history going back to 1619, when the 12th Jamestown law mandated colonists plant 10 grapevines per household, this farm in eastern Fauquier County is back in the grape growing business, and, since 2002, is making wine under their own label.

Chris Pearmund and investors purchased what had been developed as Meriwether Vineyard in 1991 and from 1995-2002 sold mainly Chardonnay grapes to other producers to make ends meet. Today the 25-acre vineyard produces Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Riesling, and Late Harvest Vidal, along with Bordeaux varietals and blends. Production is about 5000 cases, and a sister winery, LaGrange, recently opened.

Clear, bright yellow and unctuous in the glass, this wine is varietally expressive and distinct with aromas of hay, straw, lanolin, peach, petrol, height of season apricots, and golden raisins. It has an unusual complexing note of Pineau des Charentes, that French vin de liqueur made from a blend of unfermented grape must and Cognac. On the palate the wine is sweet, ripe, and grapey with peach, apricot, pineapple, and mango notes. Alcohol is moderate and there is a hint of residual sugar on the long, flavorful finish.

Reviewed July 25, 2007 by Catherine Fallis.