J. Lohr Vineyards & Wines

If you’ve never heard of Valdiguié, that’s not surprising. For years, California wineries called it “Napa Gamay” or “Gamay Beaujolais” on their labels. But DNA fingerprinting has confirmed that it isn’t Gamay Noir, the grape used in France’s Beaujolais region. Rather, it’s a grape that’s now just a minor variety in Languedoc and Provence.
J. Lohr’s version shows, however, that Valdiguié can be made into an exuberantly fruity, easy-to-drink red.

The grapes came from Lohr’s vineyard in the Arroyo Seco AVA (although the label says Monterey). The wine spent no time in oak, and 15 percent of the blend went through carbonic maceration, so the wine bears more than a passing resemblance to Beaujolais. It’s bright and fruity, with slightly candied cherry and blackberry flavors. A touch of residual sugar softens the finish. Like a lot of Beaujolais, this wine would benefit from being slightly chilled, and it would make a good aperitif or a companion for lighter fare. With the modest price of $8.50, it’s the perfect summer quaffing wine, especially if you know someone who refuses to drink anything that’s not red.

Reviewed August 30, 2007 by Laurie Daniel.