Waters Crest Winery

Much of home winemaker-turned-pro Jim Waters’ early commercial success was based on the delicious, well-priced whites — his Riesling and Gewurztraminer in particular. Many of Waters’ latest red release, however, have matched — and even surpassed — those early offerings. His limited-production, sometimes-hard-to-get reds are worth seeking out in his storefront tasting room tucked in an industrial park. Even previous vintages of Waters’ Cabernet Franc Private Reserve impressed with their rich fruit and cocoa flavours. But the 2004 release seems to take it to another level.

Waters Crest Winery 2004 Cabernet Franc Private Reserve ($35) is a ripe, spicy wine that should develop even further in coming months (and years). Made with 100 percent free-run juice and aged for 14 months in new French oak, the blackberry nose is complex with layers of black pepper, violets, smoked meat and dusty dark cocoa. Medium bodied, concentrated and a little meaty, the palate offers loads of black fruit and spice as well. Lightly tripping tannins provide just the right structure.

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Reviewed September 5, 2007 by Lenn Thompson.