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Feature Article

Bonny Doon’s Randall Grahm on Terroir

Randall Grahm’s feelings about terroir run as deep as the vine’s roots.

Santa Cruz Mountains (AVA)

The Phenomenology of Terroir: A Meditation by Randall Grahm

“Terroir is a composite of many physical factors… as well as more intangible cultural factors. Matt Kramer once very poetically defined terroir as “somewhere-ness,” and this I think is the nub of the issue. I believe that “somewhereness” is absolutely linked to beauty, that beauty reposes in the particulars…”

by Randall Grahm
April 18, 2006

Editor’s Note: At last month’s Terroir Conference at UC Davis, a transcendent Randall Grahm delivered a powerful paper on the role of Biodynamics in getting our vines, wines and winemakers back in touch with their terroir. His talk, delivered to a crowd of mostly winemakers and scientists, makes a lot of sense to us here at AppellationAmerica and we thought it might to you as well. With His Eminence’s permission, we present to you here, his paper in its entirety.


The Phenomenology of Terroir: A Meditation

I have called this talk, The Phenomenology of Terroir; you may therefore have some expectation of a degree of philosophical rigor. Your expectations, however, will be nonsystematically thwarted, as I was, as a philosophe manqué many years ago, never particularly rigorous. I found that the more sensual, tangible medium of winemaking and grape growing was a far more congenial playground for intellectual exploration.

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