Bill Dyer says he came home to Calistoga one day in the midst of the harvest of 1991, which he calls “the crush from hell” at Sterling -- where he was the winemaker for 20 years -- sat down to pour himself a beer, and listened to his neighbors arguing. He had another brew and then turned to his wife Dawnine and exclaimed, “Let’s get out of here. Let’s move to the country.”