peaking passionately of the Zinfandel grapes growing on top of the ridge in his and his neighbor Charlie Ciapusci’s Mendocino vineyards, the late George Zeni explained why winemakers such as Jed Steele trekked up the steep and twisting 15 miles to get the fruit from their historic vineyards. It was because “They wanted our mountain grapes . . .there was more sugar and it’d make a better wine. In fact, they’re still doing that right now. Why do you think Kendall-Jackson comes over here and buys Ciapusci grapes and my grapes? That’s where they get all their gold medals. Hell, I must have a dozen gold medals over there; Kendall-Jackson has over there at Lower Lake. So does Ciapusci.”