sed to be everyone in Paso thought Zin and Cab were the Holy Grail. You couldn’t make Zins big enough: you needed a ventilator to survive a day of tasting. Zins are still big here, but a sea change began about 10 years ago as winemakers fell in love with Syrah, and then all things Rhône. And it’s not just reds: Rhône whites have blasted off in popularity as well. Paso Robles has truly discovered its kinship with the south of France, where a magical Mediterranean climate is conducive to topless sunbathing, and round, fleshy whites.