escribing the effects of ancient volcanoes, deep tectonic upheavals, and even a change in direction of the river itself, Judy compared “the twenty or so distinct soil types we have in this small valley” to those of other great winegrowing areas. “Burgundy? – I love it to pieces, but they’re working with only 5 to 10 different soil types. Our vineyards span the length of the Russian River appellation, and every one is completely different. As a geologist, (referring to her Stanford degree), I’m in rock heaven here, because there’s so much diversity in our soils.”

In 2006, Judy brought in veteran winemaker George Bursick, along with master viticulturist John Erbe, to optimize the many variables of grape growing and winemaking. Each of J’s ten vineyards is planted so as to be highly site-specific, enabling it to express, in the finished wine, the vineyard’s own unique attributes. Beyond that, many more factors come into play to help develop layers of additional flavor.

In the vineyard, these include highly varied clonal selections (14 for Pinot Noir and 10 for Chardonnay), rootstocks (9), and trellising methods, in addition to the disparate soils and microclimates. Harvest takes place at night to keep the fruit cool, and different vineyard lots are often kept separate to preserve their distinct characteristics.

In the winery, George Bursick – a specialist in wine “mouthfeel” or what he calls “wine body” – continues to develop the wine’s complexity further. He includes in his Pinot Noir program, for example, “fermentation variables such as using indigenous as well as rare, exotic yeast and malolactic strains, specific punch-down regimens, slow and extended fermentations,” all designed to expand the wine’s flavor even more.

A vineyard visit was next on our agenda, so we headed uphill in four-wheel-drive mode, with John Erbe and assistant winemaker Hollis Price. Our destination: the postcard-pretty Nicole’s Vineyard, with its sweeping views of the valley. Named for Judy Jordan’s teenaged daughter, the 42-acre site represents J’s “crown jewel” of Pinot Noir. Its deep, well-drained Arbuckle soil, a reddish sandy loam, makes for rich, concentrated fruit. And although daytime temperatures here can be rather high, afternoon winds and fog cool the vineyard enough to keep the fruit’s components in balance.

With a glass of Nicole’s Vineyard Pinot in hand, we looked closely at the vines with John and Hollis. John pointed out the north-south orientation of the vineyard rows, showing us how he treats the two sides differently. On the west face of the vines, he lets the leafy canes grow horizontally to shade the grape clusters from strong afternoon sunlight, whereas on the east side, he lifts the canes straight up to let in the gentler morning rays.

John and Hollis told us of J’s recent acquisition of three new vineyard properties, describing one with angled northeast-southwest exposure where the hot afternoon sun hits the west side of the vines later in the day. They also spoke of planting a new assortment of Chardonnay clones, to add increased flavor potential to that vineyard’s finished wines.

Mastering the Wine and Food Connection

It’s well known that one great benefit of producing still wines in addition to sparklers is having a broader “flavor palette” to pair with food. Many wine-and-food professionals, in fact, view the type of complex flavors that the J team builds into their wines in the same way that chefs view their herbs and spices: as seasonings that enhance the overall effect.

This is very much in keeping with the plan that Judy Jordan set in motion when the Visitor Center was established, launching Sonoma County’s first program to combine wine tasting with a food-pairing experience. “The wines we’re making go so well with so many different foods. I thought, “Why don’t I bring in a great chef, and show people how this works – how the flavors of wine and food can go together.”

Judy sought out Mark Caldwell, a California Culinary Academy graduate and experienced winery chef, to develop creative, seasonal menus that showcase the