Osprey's Dominion Vineyards

My love of local rosé – especially this time of year – isn't news. I'm always ready to introduce non-believers to the delicious versatility that is dry rosé.

But, as with many wines in many regions, there is a seemingly endless array of styles of local rosé on Long Island. You've got your sweet, flabby versions that taste more like Koolaid than anything made with wine grapes. You've got fresh, clean, crisp wines that are just awesome on a hot summer day or with a picnic lunch. And of course there's everything in between too.

This rosé, made with Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, is a nice example of a drier style but I don't think it's bone dry. There might be some residual sugar here.

Ripe berry flavors come through on the nose, including sweet strawberries, raspberries and just a little bit of cherries. There is an almost-buttery note too that is really interesting – maybe the result of some malolactic fermentation. Fruity and a little more round on the mid-palate than many local bottlings, this rosé is medium bodied and has a similar flavor profile – with the addition of some watermelon and a minty note on the finish.

People have been telling me lately that good, fuller-bodied rosé can stand up to steak. I'm not sure about that, but if any rosé could, this might be the one. For me, it seems best served with spicy-sweet barbecued chicken.

Reviewed June 18, 2007 by Lenn Thompson.