Quails' Gate Estate Winery

Even before its release this premium Chardonnay from Quails’ Gate had already picked up a bronze medal at the 2007 Chardonnay du Monde competition. The winery would be wise to re-enter the wine each year for the next several years. This is a Chardonnay built to flower with several years of cellaring, much as a white Burgundy might. The wine is made consciously to be quite different, and more complex, than the winery’s Limited Release tier. While the latter shows well now, understanding the Family Reserve is all about grasping its potential.

The wine – 1,865 six-bottle cases were made – is entirely barrel-fermented in French Oak (40% new barrels). It was subjected to malolactic fermentation and regular lees stirring. Very ripe fruit was employed, resulting in 14% alcohol.

At this stage in the wine’s life it is a tightly wound package with notes of citrus and a hint of butteriness on the nose. The flavours include toast from the oak, notes of tangerine and subtle spices. The rich, seamless texture reflects the lees work while the alcohol and the acidity provide backbone. The finish is dry, even a touch austere. At this stage in its development, I score the wine 86 but there is a 90 point wine set to emerge in a couple of years. One need not be in a rush to yank the cork.

Reviewed June 28, 2007 by John Schreiner.