Dirty Laundry Vineyard2006 Gewurztraminer - Thread Bare Vines
Until the summer of 2005, this Summerland winery was known as Scherzinger Vineyards, named after the ex-Bavarian woodcarver, Edgar Scherzinger, who first planted Gewürztraminer on the property in 1978. The name was changed a few years after Scherzinger sold the winery and retired. The new name comes from the tale, possibly apocryphal, of a Chinese laundry in the town a century ago that locals called “dirty” because it fronted for a brothel. The new name drew so much attention that the winery, which previously struggled to sell 1,000 cases a year, has been sold out by the end of summer two years in a row. A new owner now has taken over to finance a major expansion, including a new winery, over the next several years.
The winery’s Gewürztraminer strategy is to make three versions. Threadbare Vines is bone dry, with orange peel and rose petal aromas and spicy flavours. The wine has a satisfying Alsace-style richness. Woo Woo Vines ($17.90) is essentially the same wine with just a touch of residual sugar to give the wine a little more flesh. Madams’ Vines ($19.90) is the fully ripe Gewürztraminer, the sweetest and plumpest of the three, well balanced so that the finish is rich and tropical. The style is a matter of preference. They all score 87 points.
Reviewed July 15, 2007 by John Schreiner.
John Schreiner has been covering the wines of British Columbia for the past 30 years and has written 10 books on the wines of Canada and BC. He has judged at major competitions and is currently a panel member for the Lieutenant Governor’s Awards of Excellence in Wine. Both as a judge and as a wine critic, he approaches each wine not to find fault, but to find excellence. That he now finds the latter more often than the former testifies to the dramatic improvement shown by BC winemaking in the past decade.