Surh-Luchtel Cellars

Since 1992 Don Surh and Gary Luchtel have been producing wines that while ripe and forward as one would expect from the warm Napa Valley, still manage to retain a food-friendly elegance and balance. Like a trapeze artist, one bad move and the act falls apart. With 15.9 percent alcohol out of the gate, this cannonball could easily miss its mark. Don and Gary, however, manage, through careful winemaking, to deliver a very well-balanced, lively wine.

Bright, opaque purple with flecks of ruby and very viscous, this fruit-forward wine has notes of boysenberry, prune, fig, mocha, roasted coffee bean, vanilla, and menthol. The palate is also fruit forward and strong in personality, with sweet, ripe raspberry and red cherry, mint chocolate chip ice cream, cedar, vanilla, mocha, and dark chocolate truffle. The finish is long and zesty. Surh Luchtel produced only 375 cases including some $150 3-liter (double-magnum) bottles. The 750 mls are available in both natural bark and screw cap closures.

Reviewed August 9, 2007 by Catherine Fallis.