Surh-Luchtel Cellars

Neighbors and friends since boyhood, Gary Franscioni and Gary Pisoni partnered together in 1997 on what has become one of America’s most famous Pinot Noir Vineyards, Garys’. Today both men’s sons are active in overseeing the 50 acre vineyard located in Monterey’s crown jewel for Pinot Noir, the Santa Lucia Highlands appellation (Syrah is also establishing itself as a new benchmark here). About twenty wineries purchase fruit here, including Kosta Browne, Testarossa, Miner Family, and Morgan. Having the vineyard designation guarantees a fast sell-through at all tiers. The Garys’ designates I managed to squeeze out of these wineries and Pisoni’s senior and junior for Aqua went as fast as I listed them. Aside from rave reviews leading to instant notoriety, the wines have a completely unique personality. They are sleek and deeply, darkly fruited, often with smoky, tarry overtones, and manage, depending on handling, to retain vibrant underlying natural acidity.

Bright, lightly saturated ruby with vibrant pink tones and viscous, this wine has inviting aromas of spice, cedar, cherry, raspberry, cranberry, guava, lilac, earth, tarragon, and spearmint. On the palate the wine is medium-bodied, elegant, unctuous, and sleek with a prickly acidity that smoothes out on the long, fruity finish.

Reviewed May 30, 2007 by Catherine Fallis.