Tamayo Family Vineyards

Just like the Chinese powder which melded the five elements - sour, bitter, sweet, salty, and pungent - into one, the blend of cinnamon, clove, fennel seed, star anise, and Szechuan peppercorns we know as Asian Five Spice, this gorgeous, beautifully expressive Syrah would give life to any bland dish. As terroir-driven as they come from California, this Contra Costa County Syrah is another hit from the Brentwood, California-based Tamayo Family Vineyards and their winemaker Jon Engelskirger. While not sleek or polished, deep in color, or oaky, this non-Ferrari delivers on character and charm.

Bright, well-saturated ruby and viscous with well-marked tears, it has notes of stewed meats, freshly picked heirloom tomato, earth, dust, tar, and Crozes Hermitage-like rubber. On the palate the wine is big, round, voluptuous, and deeply flavored with cherry cobbler, plum, fig, prune, prosciutto, bacon, and earth notes. The finish is long and berry-imbued. Enjoy this well-balanced if big-boned beauty with blackened duck breast, grilled swordfish, lamb shanks with eggplant and thyme or with Portobello mushrooms and dried cranberries, or with a simple flank steak (bavette) au poivre.

Reviewed August 19, 2007 by Catherine Fallis.