Rooster Hill Vineyards

In the Finger Lakes sometimes Mother Nature gives you Alsace, sometimes she gives you Mosel. In 2006, she gave Mosel. For Rooster Hill, that meant producing a low-alcohol, off-dry Gewürztraminer. Rooster Hill is one of a growing number of upstart wineries taking on the challenge of producing the variable, temperamental Gewürztraminer. The vines were planted in 2003 on Keuka Lake and slope west.

Flavors of Juicyfruit gum, lychee, with a pineapple edge mark this tropical, archetypal eastern Gewürztraminer. The lively, smacking acidity leaves a clean, limey finish. In 2006, numbers at harvest delivered good acidity and low pH. Winemaker Barry Tortelson sought to make an approachable wine appealing to a large number of consumers. “Not over the top,” he said.

Tortleson ferments two batches separately, one fermented with yeast to deliver mouth feel, the other with a yeast known to bring out fruity character. The result is an easy-going Gewürztraminer.

Reviewed December 18, 2007 by David Falchek.