Wollersheim Winery

The site of present day Wollersheim Winery was – more than a century and a half ago – also the place where Hungarian Count Agoston Haraszthy took his first stab at a vineyard on North America soil. Unfortunately, the viticultural technologies of the day yielded more disappointment than grapes for the industrious Haraszthy, who soon after fled for warmer horizons in California, where he is now recognized as “The Patriarch of California Wine.” Old Count Haraszthy would be pleased to know that things are happening in Wisconsin today.

Wollersheim’s Reserve bottling of Marechal Foch, sourced from the steepest and sunniest slopes of the estate vineyard where the vines are 34 years old, has for several years earned praise and awards, but this particular vintage is special as it is a tribute to winery founder, Bob Wollersheim, who passed away shortly after these grapes were harvested. Fittingly, Bob possessed the same pioneer spirit as Haraszthy, and like his Hungarian predecessor did for California, Bob experimented with hundreds of different grape varieties to find those most suitable for Wisconsin’s unique cold climate growing conditions. I think his choices were wise.

The 2005 Domaine Reserve is 95 percent Marechal Foch with 5 percent Leon Millot. This wine is a lovely and true-to-varietal expression of Foch. It is attractively forward with fresh raspberry fruitiness, highlighted by pastry crust and earthy notes. Diacetyl butteriness from malolactic fermentation and cedar from barrel aging (6 months in Wisconsin oak and 6 months in French) are also present, evidence of winemaking strategies to mellow the typically high acid character of Foch. The wine is medium bodied and possesses good flavor concentration without being overly extracted. Raspberry jam, sandalwood, coconut, cocoa and expectedly, great acidity, add up to a wine that both Bob Wollersheim and Agoston Haraszthy would be proud of.

Reviewed March 27, 2008 by Adam Dial.