Heinrichshaus Vineyard & Winery

Unlike most Missouri steely, clean Vidals, the Heinrichshaus Missouri Vidal Blanc (as the label states, “a Missouri grown dry white table wine”) is more akin to many Bordeaux wines which have an “amiss” element providing both a surprise and a nice accompaniment to compose a fine wine. The medium body finishes with a surprising slight creosote or savory taste and an aroma characteristic of slight Brettanomyces infection (a kind of yeast that can either add to or detract from a wine's profile, depending on level of contamination). This is the “amiss” factor in the wine. Fruit is not sacrificed, however, and the “amiss” finish really calls out for another taste. This straw-hued white is substantial (again, considering many other Missouri Vidals) yet nimble, with decent acidity and overall balance. This is really one of the best Vidals in the state.

If you can find Heinrichshaus Vineyards and Winery (call first), it would be worth your while to stop in and pick up some of this Vidal. Many desire what is amiss, provided what is amiss augments what is not amiss. What is perfect is flawed, the flaw making it perfect. What some might consider a flaw in the Heinrichshaus Missouri Vidal Blanc, others might consider a desirable component.

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Reviewed April 30, 2008 by Tim Pingelton.