Wine Recommendation
  Sign In
Subscribe to our newsletter
Bookmark and Share  
print this review     

Wine Recommendation

Jamesport Vineyards

2004 Chardonnay, Cox Lane Vineyard
(North Fork of Long Island)

2004 was only an average growing year on the North Fork of Long Island, but Ron Goerler, Jamesport Vineyards' owner and vineyard manager, spoke highly last spring of his chardonnay (and cabernet sauvignon) grapes. He's well-regarded as a grape grower and his reputation is actually part of what attracted winemaker Lew Howard to Jamesport Vineyards.

When I first met Les last year, he stated a desire to make well-balanced wines first and foremost because "Spikes of oak or acidity numb your taste buds, shortening the finish."

So what about this 2004 Cox Lane Chardonnay?

Just over one-third of the fruit was fermented in steel tanks, while the remaining grapes were fermented in one- and two-year old oak barrels, leading to an oak-inflected, but not at all oak-dominated wine.

The nose is lemony, with toasted marshmallow aromas. The winery's website describes this wine as "more like California" but I found it much more Chablis-into-Macon than Napa. When chilled, it was lean, with citrus and crisp pear flavors that develop into richer baked apple and caramel as the wine warms a bit.

It's medium bodied and exhibits a nice balance of fruit, oak accent and acidity.

Reviewed February 27, 2006 by Lenn Thompson.


The Wine

Winery: Jamesport Vineyards
Vineyard: Cox Lane Vineyard
Vintage: 2004
Wine: Chardonnay
Appellation: North Fork of Long Island
Grape: Chardonnay

Review Date: 2/27/2006

The Reviewer

Lenn Thompson

Lenn Thompson writes about New York wines for Dan's Papers,
Long Island Press, Long Island Wine Gazette, Edible East End
and Two words describe his taste in wine — balance and nuance. Lenn prefers food-friendly, elegant wines to jammy, over-extracted fruit bombs and heavy-handed oak. When reviewing, Lenn tastes each wine three times — alone right after opening, with food, and again the next day — believing that 90-second reviews are unrealistic and not how the average person enjoys wine.