Shady Lane Cellars

Wine writers can get sick of reviewing Chardonnay. There’s a certain sameness in many samples, and, depending on the reviewer’s persuasion (is Burgundy or California your model?), approaching the dreaded Chardonnay review can often be a hunt for one that fits your perhaps too lofty ideals. That is not fair, really. The job is to describe the wine.

It’s exciting, though, to taste Chardonnay in a “new to you” region, where the terroir is a mystery of sorts, and you’re not sure what to expect. That’s because Chardonnay is the World’s White Grape, and is well known for expressing its region of origin. Some places cannot grow it at all, while at the opposite end of the spectrum are those tropical fruit bowl versions with too much alcohol and oaky vanilla. In any case, Chardonnay always tells the “terroirable truth.”

That’s partly why one becomes enamored with winemaker Adam Satchwell’s wines, of which Chardonnay is just one great example. All his wines are pure expressions, but the Chardonnay is particularly interesting in that it reflects the cooler climate of the region so well. The wine comes across as decidedly Burgundian, even though, curiously, it is not pure Chardonnay – it includes 21% Auxerrois, which apparently gives more depth in this climate. The wine is dry with some spicy but not dominant oak (11 months in American and French barrels, with 25% new oak) balancing the crisp, clean lemon and apple aromas and tastes. In other words, it’s my kind of Chardonnay.

Oops, I just gave away my persuasion. I’ve gone and outed myself as Burgundian!

Reviewed August 1, 2006 by Craig Pinhey.