Ceja Vineyards

Almost everything this producer makes, with vineyard holdings on the Sonoma and Napa sides of Los Carneros, is consistent and consistently pleasing. Especially to those of us who appreciate terroir-driven wines that show the origin of their fruit.

This 2002 has warm black cherry aromas and brambly black cherry flavors with bright acidity in the mid-palate. This is not a hit-you-over-the-noggin’ kind of wine, which is not the Ceja family’s style, but there’s plenty of strength here. Begin drinking it now but in a year or two I think it will soften, and continue to do so over the ensuing dozen years.

Somehow, the Ceja’s manage to bring many of their wines in under the 14-percent alcohol level – most likely having to do with the cool Carneros climate. But this wine doesn’t come from the Carneros but rather from Ceja’s Silverado Trail Vineyard that’s planted to five acres of Cabernet and is situated between the Stags Leap District and the town of Napa, where it’s still cooler than up-valley, but not as cool as the Carneros.

This one still manages, however, to come in at a listed 13.7 percent alcohol. The wine spent 29 months in French oak, 58-60% of which was new. There were 300 cases produced.

Reviewed November 16, 2006 by Alan Goldfarb.