 
|
|
Feature Article
"It's all about the vineyard. The Cabernet that comes from Monte Rosso has the elegance of Sonoma County Cabernet with the structure of Napa ones."
Sonoma Valley’s Legendary
Monte Rosso Vineyard:
Acclaimed Winemaker Ed Sbragia Explains Its Allure
As much as a winemaker wants to say, "I made the wine," the winery made the wine; the vineyard made the wine.
~Ed Sbragia, Sbragia Family Vineyards
by
Eleanor & Ray Heald
June 11, 2007
California Cabernet Sauvignon aficionados have long revered bottlings of the varietal from the legendary Monte Rosso Vineyard in the Sonoma Valley AVA. Located on the southwest side of the Mayacamas mountain range, near the town of Agua Caliente, vineyard elevations range 700 to 1,240 feet.
Monte Rosso is also one of the most notable vineyards, with a history dating back to 1880 when it was first purchased and planted by partners Benjamin Dreyfus and Emmanuel Goldstein, who named it Mt. Pisgah Vineyard. Although no longer in operation, the property is still home to the stone winery built in 1886 and a Victorian-style farm house built in 1903. Several blocks of old-vine Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel, planted as early as 1890, are still bearing.
Dreyfus died in 1886 and the property was renamed Goldstein Ranch. Goldstein heirs put the property up for sale in 1938 when it was purchased by Louis M. Martini, a long-time purchaser of grapes from the property, who feared that he would lose his prized fruit source. Martini renamed the vineyard Monte Rosso, a name reflective of its mountain summit location with iron rich, red soils.
About 180 acres were planted to Zinfandel when Martini acquired the land. He extended planting to Cabernet Sauvignon because he understood that these were the two most promising varietals for the ranch. Steep terraces were farmed with surplus U.S. Army vehicles purchased after World War II.
A FAMILY AFFAIR: Ed Sbragia (right) helps his son, Adam Sbragia make wine at the newly-founded Sbragia Family Vineyards. Ed remains winemaster at Beringer Vineyards in Napa Valley.Since 2002, E&J Gallo owns the 575-acre property with 231 acres planted and the Louis M. Martini Winery, where Michael Martini (grandson of Louis M.) continues to make wines from the Monte Rosso Vineyard.
Believing that it's difficult to boast fully about heirlooms, we did not seek to interview Michael (Mike) Martini, but rather his long-time friend Ed Sbragia, Beringer Vineyards winemaker for over 30 years, who now has the title Winemaster. Ed also aids his winemaker son Adam in producing the wines at the newly-founded Sbragia Family Vineyards, one of which is Monte Rosso Cabernet Sauvignon, produced by the Sbragias since the 2002 vintage.
Over his years at Beringer, Sbragia has worked with vineyard consultant Bob Steinhauer and has commented that: "Bob always says he gives me diamonds and it's up to me to polish them." Sbragia feels the same way about the Monte Rosso Vineyard grapes which he's privileged to purchase from Mike Martini.
Monte Rosso is also one of the most notable vineyards, with a history dating back to 1880 when it was first purchased and planted by partners Benjamin Dreyfus and Emmanuel Goldstein, who named it Mt. Pisgah Vineyard. Although no longer in operation, the property is still home to the stone winery built in 1886 and a Victorian-style farm house built in 1903. Several blocks of old-vine Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel, planted as early as 1890, are still bearing.
Dreyfus died in 1886 and the property was renamed Goldstein Ranch. Goldstein heirs put the property up for sale in 1938 when it was purchased by Louis M. Martini, a long-time purchaser of grapes from the property, who feared that he would lose his prized fruit source. Martini renamed the vineyard Monte Rosso, a name reflective of its mountain summit location with iron rich, red soils.
About 180 acres were planted to Zinfandel when Martini acquired the land. He extended planting to Cabernet Sauvignon because he understood that these were the two most promising varietals for the ranch. Steep terraces were farmed with surplus U.S. Army vehicles purchased after World War II.
A FAMILY AFFAIR: Ed Sbragia (right) helps his son, Adam Sbragia make wine at the newly-founded Sbragia Family Vineyards. Ed remains winemaster at Beringer Vineyards in Napa Valley.
Believing that it's difficult to boast fully about heirlooms, we did not seek to interview Michael (Mike) Martini, but rather his long-time friend Ed Sbragia, Beringer Vineyards winemaker for over 30 years, who now has the title Winemaster. Ed also aids his winemaker son Adam in producing the wines at the newly-founded Sbragia Family Vineyards, one of which is Monte Rosso Cabernet Sauvignon, produced by the Sbragias since the 2002 vintage.
Over his years at Beringer, Sbragia has worked with vineyard consultant Bob Steinhauer and has commented that: "Bob always says he gives me diamonds and it's up to me to polish them." Sbragia feels the same way about the Monte Rosso Vineyard grapes which he's privileged to purchase from Mike Martini.
Eleanor & Ray Heald (ERH): How were you able to source Monte Rosso Cabernet Sauvignon?
To read the rest of this article (and much else besides),
please become an Appellation America Subscriber. It's easy and low-cost!
