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Feature Article
Leo McCloskey is equivocal: He bows to the importance of terroir but tells wineries how to get high scoring wines that may leave terroir behind.
California (State Appellation)
Leo McCloskey: “You Shouldn’t Have to Pay for Terroir”
“Terroir should be like religion, it should be almost for free. It should come with the wine like good punctuation. In that sense, I think terroir is valuable. It’s like having good grammar and speaking good English. Terroir is an attribute, it’s not a number.”
by
Alan Goldfarb
August 6, 2007
To wine wonks, Leo McCloskey is notorious. Clients who get advice from him and his Sonoma, CA. company Enologix no doubt appreciate his efforts to guide them toward making the types of wines that the critics love. But McCloskey’s detractors accuse him of being the devil incarnate and believe that he’s at the forefront of an alarming trend of contributing to big, homogenous California wine.
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