Pahrump Valley Winery

Wineries in Nevada? Isn’t it too hot and too cold in the desert and the mountains? The answer is yes: it’s really too extreme to be a good climate for growing grapes. But then, who needs to grow when you can buy lots of decent fruit from California? At this point, there are two wineries in Nevada, and I can say I’ve been to both of them. One is Tahoe Ridge, in Minden, and the other is Pahrump Valley Winery, 50 miles west of Las Vegas.

Pahrump is high in the Mojave Desert, where the things that grow best are mesquite, tumbleweed and casinos. And housing tracts. And cheap strip malls. The town of Pahrump is growing faster than a casino jackpot, and the prices for real estate are remarkably astronomical given the rather pedestrian look and feel of the place. The thought of a winery in the desert was too intriguing to pass up. I tasted thru the wine list, and was most impressed with the Symphony wine: one of my favorites for its unique flavor profile.

Symphony, which you will learn right here on the Appellation America web site is an American-born hybrid whose parents were Muscat of Alexandria and Grenache Gris. It is without doubt one of the most fruity and sweet of wine grapes, often characterized by enormous honeysuckle and orange blossoms. This wine, made from California-sourced fruit, is no exception. It positively explodes with Central Valley ripe melons and amazingly sweet, ripe white peach flavors. If you like the idea of drinking peaches and nectarines, you’ll love this wine. I do. It’s classic Symphony, it’s well-priced, it comes from a winery in Nevada, and unlike many things in this state, it’s a sure bet.

(Alc: 12%, Price: $10.95)

Reviewed December 11, 2006 by Laura Ness.