Joseph Filippi Winery & Vineyards

From one of California’s many overlooked regions (both the North and Central Coast have much higher visibility in the market place), the South Coast appellation centers around Temecula and Cucamonga, AVA’s to watch. Most of what we see on the shelves with a “Coastal” reference on the label are innocuous corporate releases that are about as interesting as processed American cheese. This area, and this winery in particular, provides Chardonnay-fatigued palates a cornucopia of options, including this wild, zany Viognier.

Viognier produces a small crop and provides many challenges along the way. Prone to powdery mildew in damp conditions or humid climates, it produces notoriously low and unpredictable yields, and needs to be picked when fully ripe. The grape develops high sugar quickly, which translates to wines with high alcohol, but if they are not physiologically ripe the wine will not show its characteristic floral, apricot and acacia aromas and honeyed characteristics.

This version from Joseph Filippi Winery has the classic silky mid-palate and soft acids, but goes way beyond the traditional flavor spectrum to include notes of pear, tarragon, pumpkin ravioli in sage butter, hay, lime zest, kiwi, star fruit, and watermelon.

Reviewed January 8, 2007 by Catherine Fallis.