Joseph Filippi Winery & Vineyards

Syrah is the new Merlot. Not only is it as easy to pronounce as it is to love, versions are cropping up all over the state, some at refreshingly real, everyday prices.

World famous Hermitage and Côte Rôtie of France's northern Rhône Valley are typically powerful and expensive versions of this varietal, flavored with dark berry fruit, earth, smoke, and spice. Australian Shiraz ranges from light and fruity perhaps with a menthol spike to decadent and port-like and also from entry level to luxury pricing.

In California, shelves are crowded with dozens of unheard of new Napa and Sonoma versions starting upwards of $50. Thankfully, the more humble and less financially stressed folks in the Southern California AVA of Cucamonga Valley, including brothers Joseph “J.P.” and Gino Filippi, who recently celebrated their family’s 83rd anniversary in the wine business, offer high quality at well below market value.

Bright ruby with medium saturation of color, this expressive, complex, and juicy Syrah has notes of bramble, sage, cherry, plum, mulberry pie, menthol, char, and the inside of a walk-in cigar humidor. The oak influence is rather lavish but doesn’t overwhelm the fruit, and the finish is clean and tart, inviting another sip or bite of food.

Reviewed October 20, 2006 by Catherine Fallis.