Abacela Vineyards and Winery

The same year Earl Jones released his first Tempranillo (1997) he also released his first Dolcetto. Though Oregon produces precious little of this Italian variety, it has garnered a loyal following because of the kind of attention that a few dedicated producers like Abacela bring to the grape.

The 2005 version of Abacela’s Dolcetto is excellent. In the glass, seductive scents of crushed red fruits are laced with notes of lavender and hint of dried herbs. On the palate layers of plum and black raspberry fruitiness are combined with an intriguing sense of dried rose petals on the one hand, and pencil lead and minerals on the other. Though there are considerable tannins in this wine—and chewy ones, at that—there is also good backing acidity and enough fruit to balance the whole.

Winemaker Kiley Evans has been with Abacela since 2002, and became Winemaker in June of 2005. He has worked with Abacela’s fruit since the 2000 vintage and has clearly mastered the myriad of varieties that Abacela produces (Abacela grows 7 major varieties for its program, and 12 so-called “minor” varieties—including a number of Port varietals). In particular, his wines from the last two vintages are showing exciting character.

The grapes for the 2005 Dolcetto all came from Abacela’s estate vineyards, located on a geologically complex hillside within the Umpqua Valley and Southern Oregon AVAs. (238 cases made.)

Reviewed April 26, 2007 by Cole Danehower.