Raphael

To oak or not to oak, that is the question for many Long Island winemakers when it comes to Cabernet Franc. Some wineries try to make Cab Franc into something that it's not – Cabernet Sauvignon. They use too much oak and try to extract too much from the grapes. The result is often less than tasty.

And, much like local Sauvignon Blanc's subservient relationship to local Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc often plays second (or even third) fiddle to Merlot. With Raphael's 2005 Cabernet Franc, winemaker Richard Olsen-Harbich captures the ripeness of a tremendous vintage and purely expresses why this grape is so well suited to Long Island. And why many of my favorite wines are made with it.

This red is made somewhat in the style of those from the Loire valley, meaning it is made without oak. The resulting wine very well may be my favorite local red under $20. The nose is loaded with red cherries and raspberries that are accented by floral spice and earthy notes. The palate is richly flavorful with cherry, spice and earth and pleasant structure – the result of acidity and skin tannin rather than overbearing oak. A pleasure to drink and highly versatile at the table.

Reviewed June 13, 2007 by Lenn Thompson.