Raphael

One of the greatest things about Long Island wines is their food-friendly attributes. Many are fruit-forward, but they almost never plunge into the overtly fruity, high-alcohol pool of New World wines. Alcohol levels usually hover around the 12-13 percent level as well--so you can have two or three glasses of wine with dinner and not need a nap. Cool nights and ocean breezes help growing grapes retain their natural acidity too - another great benefit for those who like wine with food. A move away from heavy new oak - or at least more judicious use of said oak - also results in wines ideally suited to table time.

A clean, refreshing new white, Raphael's 2006 Grand Cru Chardonnay ($16) is made entirely in stainless steel tanks - the way winemaker Richard Olsen-Harbich thinks local Chardonnay shines most brightly. The nose is somewhat austere, but offers lightly fruity pear and melon aromas with a wonderful smell of the sea in the background. That almost-salty minerality carries through and drives the palate with the pear and melon character taking a step back. Medium bodied with substantial--but balanced--natural acidity, this would make a great house wine this summer. The finish even lingers longer than expected.

Reviewed August 23, 2007 by Lenn Thompson.