Artisan Wine Company

British Columbia’s newest entry in the critter label derby, the Rigamarole brand has caused something of a stir, both inside the industry and with consumers. The wine is attributed to a winery that doesn’t physically exist – Rigamarole Winery, C/O Artisan Wine Co. in Oliver, B.C. In fact, it is made for (and almost certainly by) the Mission Hill winery. Mission Hill has a track record for making provocative brands that bring new consumers into the market. A few years ago, it authored a brand called Rotting Grape that was all the rage with the 20-somethings.

The concept is expressed thus by the producer: “Why is it always such a big Rigamarole to simply find a great drinking red?” And the wine comes with three different labels. One shows an elephant, another a dancing rhinoceros and the third gibra. The latter also does not exist physically but might if a giraffe and a zebra could mate.

So what about the wine? A very agreeable quaffer with soft tannins, flavours of cherries and raspberries and lots of white pepper, from the aroma right through to the finish. 86 points.

I awarded an equal score to its stable mate, Rigamarole White 2006, a refreshing and fruity summer white, also selling for $15.99.

Reviewed September 1, 2007 by John Schreiner.