Domenico Wines

Dominick Chirichillo enjoys seeking out interesting varieties that are not overdone, especially those that go nicely with the foods of his Italian heritage. He goes out of his way to find these gems, and in this case, happened upon a vineyard in Lodi from whence to source this very fine example of how to treat Malvasia like a lady, rather than like a vamp. You may have experienced a Malvasia sparkler or something that came right out of the dessert case.

It’s rare that Malvasia is done as dry as this, but I’m glad he chose to go the lean and clean route. This 100 percent Malvasia Bianca is a delightful balance beam gymnast, deftly balancing acidity with a full-bodied and plush mouthfeel, sort of like MaryLou Retton, with her muscular, yet delicately sweet physique. It opens with gorgeous aromas of honey, floral perfume, tangerine, lemon peel, stalk flower and sweet apricots. The flavours are lush and at the same time light and airy, beginning with tangerine, pineapple and passionfruit, and opening to biscotti and dried apricots. Not only would this wine be stunning with Asian cuisine, particularly Thai or Vietnamese, but it is also supreme with an apricot-almond tart or apricot-cranberry biscotti.

Reviewed January 17, 2008 by Laura Ness.