Fox Run Vineyards

One, Two, Tierce. Yes, the third installment of Tierce Riesling, 2006, is about to be released. Tierce is the admirable wine–growing, and wine–making collaboration of three of Seneca Lake’s top producers – Anthony Road, Fox Run, and Red Newt – and this hat-trick of vintages is a good sign that there’s great synergy in this partnership.

Tasting all three vintages side by side reveals both similarities from the strong provenance of the three vineyard sources on Seneca Lake, and distinct differences, from the individual vintage characteristics, and of course, the varying amounts of time each wine has had in bottle.

Let’s tackle the similarities first. All three wines display that telltale Finger Lakes lemon-lime fruit, wet stone minerality, and tremendous acid core that gives them refreshing zip in youth as well as the ability to age gracefully into grand and complex beauties after up to a decade in the bottle.

Outside of their strong sense of place and regionality, the three wines show that each vintage brings with it its own personality.

The inaugural 2004 vintage (which was reviewed more than a year ago here on APPELLATION AMERICA) has truly developed into a gem, now exhibiting some of the classic petrol character that Riesling lovers seek in a well aged wine. This added layer of complexity only enhances the fresh fruit, floral and mineral notes, which still display vividly on the nose and palate. (Hopefully some readers took us up on our earlier recommendation and have some of this superb wine in their cellars – it’s an absolute delight!)

The sophomore release accurately represents its vintage. 2005 was one of the hottest summers in many years across much of the east, and the fruit character of this wine is appropriately a little more forward, and the mouthfeel just a little richer with a softer acid impression.

And what about the 2006? Well, I think there will be much to celebrate at this weekend’s coming out party for the newest Tierce. The wine serves up vibrant citrus aromas, backed by delicate white rose floral notes and that typical flinty minerality. It then springs to life on the palate with a light effervescence and lip smacking acidity that keeps the sweet fruit flavors bouncing around your mouth, and finally there’s a gentle kiss of sweetness on your lips as citrus fruit and pithy bitterness fade slowly on a long dry finish.

Three vintages, three stunning wines. I can’t wait to see what 2007 brings!

Reviewed May 2, 2008 by Adam Dial.